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Gewurztraminer is a pink-skinned grape variety that produces some of the world's most distinctive aromatic wines. Its perfumed style is somewhat polarizing; fans adore its intense floral scent and sweet-spice flavors, while detractors lament its low acidity and lack of subtlety.

Literally translated, Gewurztraminer means "spiced Traminer" (Traminer Aromatico in Italian), in reference to the grape's heritage as a mutation of the Traminer family of grapes. Up until 1870 Gewurztraminer was simply known as Traminer in Alsace, and even until the 1970s both Traminer and Gewurztraminer were used to describe the same grapes. Winemakers of this time can easily be forgiven though, for the Traminer family is notorious for its genetic instability.

Gewurztraminer’s parentage is as hard to trace. It seems most likely that Gewurztraminer is the musqué mutation of the Traminer family, also known as Roter Traminer (Savagnin Rose).

The best examples of Gewurztraminer are generally regarded as being from the Grand Cru vineyards of Alsace. It could even be argued that Alsace is the spiritual home of Gewurztraminer, despite the fact that it is not its ancestral home and Gewurztraminer accounts for less than one-fifth of vineyard area in the region.

Gewurztraminer, as we know it today, arrived in Alsace from the Pfalz region. The rich clay soils present in Alsace proved an ideal environment to produce full-bodied Gewurztraminer wines. The richness of both dry, and late-harvest, Gewurztraminer wines in Alsace set the benchmark for which the variety is judged.

The primary aromatic descriptors used to define Gewurztraminer are typically lychee, rose petal, Turkish delight and perfume. On the palate it is marked by its full texture, low acidity, stonefruit (mango, peach and apricot) and spicy (ginger and cinnamon) flavors.

Somewhat confusingly in Australia, the variety is often referred to as simply 'Traminer'. The confusion is amplified by the recent discovery that a small amount of actual Traminer is grown in Australia – it had been misidentified as Albarino for many years prior to 2009.

Notable examples of Gewurztraminer produced outside Alsace are from New Zealand, Oregon, Washington, Germany and northern Italy. It is also made under a wide number of synonyms in eastern Europe, but these wines are rarely exported.

Synonyms include: Traminer Aromatico, Traminer Musqué, Traminer, Gentil Aromatique, Savagnin Rose Aromatique.

Food matches for Gewurztraminer include:

• Stir-fried pork with pickled plum (dry)

• Crayfish laksa (dry)

• Pannacotta (sweet)

Enjoy this video about Gewurztraminer, from Sonoma Valley's Kunde Family Estate.