Auvergne is an administrative region of southern central France, dominated by the foothills and low mountains of the Massif Central. Among the peaks of these hills rise many rivers, the two most important of which (in wine terms at least) are the Allier and the Loire. The first name is most readily associated with oak barrels (some of the world's finest come from the ancient Allier oak forests), while the more widely known Loire is France's longest river and one of the country's key wine regions.
Over millions of years, both of these rivers have carved their paths through the Massif Central, creating valleys, lakes and alluvial plains on their route towards the lower-lying lands of northern and western France. They eventually meet at the very center of France, about 25 miles (40km) south of Sancerre. Here, the dominant Loire continues on its northward course before turning west to become the heart of the Loire Valley wine region.
Both the Allier and the upper reaches of the Loire are surrounded by traditional vine-growing areas; wine has been made here at least since Roman times and various long-established styles survive today. Despite this long history, very few wines from this area have ever risen to fame. This could well be due to the their light structure and lack of ageing potential, but could equally be the result of the remote location. Saint-Pourcain, for example, is precisely 70 miles (112km) from the nearest appellations of any note – the often confused Pouilly-Fume to the north and Pouilly-Fuisse to the east. For obvious reasons, wine regions located near to ports or major trading routes (e.g. Bordeaux) have been more commercially successful than those lacking an efficient export route.
The typical red wine from these central French vineyards is a light-bodied red or rose, produced from Gamay and vinified via carbonic maceration. Both Cote Roannaise and Cotes du Forez specialize in this style, made famous by Beaujolais just to the east. The whites are based mostly on Chardonnay, although there is still a certain output of whites made from Sacy (Tresallier), mostly in Saint-Pourcain.
The over-riding character of Auvergne is its semi-mountainous topography, which translates quite directly into the local wine styles. The higher altitude – most Auvergne vineyards lie between 1300 and 1650ft (400–500m) – and continental climate mean that average annual temperatures are noticeably lower than in nearby Burgundy and the famously warm Rhone Valley. This leads to less densely structured wines, made from earlier-ripening varieties which rely on their fruity aromas and refreshing acidity.
