Carso is a wine region in the far southeastern reaches of Italy's most northeastern region, Friuli-Venezia Giulia. It sits on the Istrian Peninsula, bordering Slovenia, between the Isonzo river and the city of Trieste. The land here, interspersed by subterranean watercourses, is unique in character and incredibly challenging to cultivate, but offers plentiful rewards for those who try. Fresh, floral red wines and herbaceous white wines are typical of Carso, made from Refosco (known locally as Terrano) and Malvasia respectively.
The region's geology is so distinct that its name, Carso, shares the same etymology as the karst landscape that defines the area – the word karst comes from the German name for the area, Kras. A karst landscape is formed by water carving through rock – in this case limestone. The result is a stony terroir shot through with underground caves and cavities, some of them collapsed, and very little in the way of topsoil – a situation that makes the land very challenging for growers.
Ingenuity has made viticulture possible here, then, rather than the natural aptitude of the land. Red, iron-rich soil is excavated from the region's caves and laid over top of soil trucked in from Trieste – an expensive labor of love that has been practiced by Carso growers for years. This creates a topsoil for the vines that retains water and contributes sufficient nutrients for grapegrowing, essentially transforming the inhospitable landscape into a balanced terroir.
The long, thin region has a dual climate, which brings a special touch to the terroir. The strong Bora wind blasts through the high altitudes of the upland, bringing fiercely cold temperatures and vigorous winters. Lower down the slope, towards the sea, a Mediterranean climate dominates. The surprising factor is that a distance of only a few hundred meters separates the two areas. Despite the challenge wine producers face in cultivating this land, the exceptional wine produced in the area is definitely worth the hardship.
Unique to Carso is the leading red variety, Terrano, which is related to Friuli's key red variety, Refosco. Terrano wines reflect the iron-rich soils through their mineral notes and deep red color, a distinguishing feature which gives this wine the nickname Sangue del Carso. The effects of the terroir have led to some doctors prescribing the wine to cure digestive problems, and for those with iron deficiencies. Particularly low in alcohol and often redolent of violets and raspberries, these wines are known for their piercingly high acidity – making them ideal matches for Slavic-style cuisine.
The leading white grape is Malvasia, which was introduced by the Greeks to this area and the neighboring Istria. Wine made from this variety displays recognizable honey-almond notes, a distinct fragrance and tangy characteristics. Other notable Italian varieties in this area are Vitovska, of Slovenian origin, which gives its wines notes of sage and fresh flavors of prune, cherry and Williams pears; and Traminer, whose name originates from the village of Tramin in South Tyrol. Internationally renowned Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc also play their part in bringing Carso into the spotlight.
