Ormeasco di Pornassio is a DOC-level wine made in the north-western corner of Liguria, in the Italian Alps. Wines here are made from the ancient red Dolcetto grape variety, which is known here as Ormeasco, hence the DOC's name. However, the Ligurian version makes considerably different wines than in Piedmont: Ormeasco di Pornassio wines are brighter in color, with a more intense, perfumed bouquet and sweeter tannins, while still maintaining a distinct bitter characteristic.
The DOC is considered a mountain wine, as the terroir surrounding the village of Pornassio is not particularly hospitable. This part of the Alps is essentially a continuation of those that surround the French Riviera: Italy's border with France is close by and the city of Nice is just 40 miles (65km) away. Comparisons to the terroir of the Aosta Valley a little way north are not unfounded, but the wines made nearer the coast are quite different.
Altitude is a key factor in Pornassio's terroir. Vineyards sit in a steep valley above a small river on hillsides that mostly lie between 1300-1650ft (400-500m) above sea level, but can reach as high as 2600ft (800m). This altitude brings cold evenings which help the grapes retain acidity as they ripen, but ripening itself can sometimes be a struggle. Premature autumn frosts can also pose challenges to growers, but this is negated by Ormeasco's tendency toward early ripening.
The region has moderate rainfall, the worst of which is concentrated in the winter months. The growing season is reasonably dry, but at any rate, the slopes and free-draining sandy soils do not collect water, preventing excessive vegetation growth and disease.
It was not until 2003 that Ormeasco di Pornassio was awarded its own classification; it previously came under the Riviera di Ligure di Ponente DOC. This wine's distinctive, vibrant personality helped it rise to fame among wine consumers, and the DOC award reflected this. Regulations require that the wine comprise at least 95 percent of Ormeasco with the remaining 5 percent made up of other red grapes permitted in Liguria. The DOC allows a red wine (which may also be made as a superiore), as well as a dried-grape passito and higher-alcohol liquoroso, both barrel-aged for 12 months. A rosato wine is also permitted under the Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC: this is called Sciac-tra and is quite distinct from the famous sweet Sciacchetra delle Cinque Terre wine from the other end of Liguria.
