Bairrada is a DOC of the Beiras region in the central northern area of Portugal. It is known for producing rich, deeply colored red wines made from Baga, Castelão and Rufete grapes, although it has not quite reached the level of fame enjoyed by its inland neighbor, Dão.
© Campolargo Vinhos
Beiras is relatively wide, as Portuguese regions go, and stretches from the Atlantic coast right to the border with Spain. Bairrada is located in the western, coastal half of Beiras, and enjoys the moderate climate influenced by the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. In terms of soil profile, the majority of Bairrada vineyards have limestone-rich clay soils (barro is Portuguese for 'clay'). This terroir continues eastwards into the Dao wine region, where some of Portugal's most highly prized vineyards are found.
Baga is Bairrada's key red grape variety, making up around 75 percent of red-wine plantings. The late-ripening variety does well in the terroir here, although rain and winds in autumn from the nearby Atlantic coast can play havoc at harvest. Baga's small berries and thick skins make for an intense, tannic wine, and Bairrada vignerons are adding Merlot, Cabernet and Touriga Nacional to their vineyards to give wines softness and depth.
Bairrada's white wines are dominated by Fernao Pires and Bical. Bical is a very popular white-wine grape in Bairrada and Dao, and has acquired the affectionate nickname Borrado das Moscaos ('fly droppings'). After approximately five years, Bical wines often have aromatic qualities similar to those of aged Riesling. Fernao Pires (also known as Maria Gomes) is Portugal's most widely planted white grape, used more intensively in the south than the north.
The region became a DOC in 1980, although Bairrada saw its first vineyards planted centuries ago. The region suffered a major setback in the 18th century, however, when Port was becoming popular with British consumers. Several producers in Bairrada labeled their wines as Port, and several Port producers used wines from Bairrada to ameliorate their wines. The result of this trickery was that the government ordered all of Bairrada's vineyards to be uprooted. The region's reputation has only begun to improve in the last few decades.
