Távora-Varosa is a small, remote and mountainous DOC wine region at the northern edge of Beiras, in central-northern Portugal. Although located between the country's two most famous red-wine regions (Douro to the north and Dão to the south), Távora-Varosa is known for its white sparkling wines.
The western half of the Távora-Varosa zone spans the land between the Távora and Paiva rivers (both of which are tributaries of the Douro). This is the area once known simply as Távora. The eastern half is the area once covered by the former Encostas de Nave IPR appellation, and spreads eastwards from the Távora to cover the parishes of Moimenta de Beira, Penedono, São João de Pesqueira, Sernancelhe and Tabuco. Prior to the creation of the Távora-Varosa appellation title, this area had only the Varosa IPR (Indicacão de Proveniencia Regulamentada) title for its wines. There also existed at that time the Encostas de Nave IRP title, which covered red, Douro-style table wines from the hills of the Serra da Nave ranges.
The official DOC boundaries hug tightly those of the Douro DOC. In places, the line can be clearly seen on satellite images; on one side are the vine-strewn hillsides of the Douro, on the other the sparser, sometimes heavily wooded land of Távora-Varosa. Interestingly, the town of Távora itself (named after the river which flows through the valley just below it) is not covered by the title. The vineyards there produce red Port and Douro wines.
The climate here is semi-continental, with pronounced temperature variations between day and night, and summer and winter. This is emphasized by the fact that most vineyards here sit between 1650ft and 2650ft (500m to 810m) above sea level. The cooling effects of this increased altitude are somewhat offset by the region's low latitude of 41°N, but overall, this is one of Portugal's coolest wine-growing areas. The dominant soil types found in Távora-Varosa vineyards are granite and schist. The heat absorbed by these dense rock types during the day helps to off-set the colder night-time temperatures.
According to the Caderno de Especificações (the official legal document which outlines the appellation's production laws), all sparkling wines produced under the Távora-Varosa title must pass two separate certifications: one for the base wine and one after secondary fermentation, when the wine has become sparkling. The yield limits in force here (in hectoliters per hectare) are 55 for reds and 60 for whites.
Still, white Távora-Varosa wines are usually crisp, fresh, high-acid affairs with aromas dominated by citrus fruits. The reds tend to be bright, full-bodied and slightly less acidulous, as they typically come from more-exposed, south-facing vineyard sites. Thanks to the combination of high sunshine levels and cool temperatures, the sparkling wines made here are relatively weighty (particularly when compared to those from, say Champagne or the Loire Valley) but have sufficient aromatic complexity and acidity to evolve well with a few years cellaring.
Although Portugal is not particularly well known for its sparkling wines, those from Távora-Varosa tend to be of high quality. It was this fact which led the area to be Portugal's very first to be officially demarcated for sparkling wines, in 1989. In terms of grape varieties, Malvasia Fina accounts for roughly one half of older vineyards. The remaining half is made up of Bical, Cerceal, Fernao Pires and Gouveio among the white-wine varieties, and Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca (the classic Douro varieties) among the reds. The success of red wines from the neighboring Douro Valley has not gone unnoticed by Távora-Varosa winemakers, so these classic Portuguese red-wine varieties are being planted all around the area. Interestingly, there are also significant plantings of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir here (the classic sparkling wine blend originally from Champagne but now used all over the world).
One of the key producers here is Murganheira, a winery which has long maintained a heavy focus on sparkling wines. The shift in the winery's portfolio towards red and white table wines (made in the image of Douro DOC wines) marks a shift in the direction of the region in general, and Portugal as a whole. Both red and rosé wines are made from the traditional Douro/Port grape varieties Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.
