Kremstal is a small, prestigious wine district at the very heart of Austria's top winemaking zone. On either side of it lie the aristocracy of Austrian wine regions; to the northeast is Kamptal, to the southwest, Wachau. As implied in its name, Kremstal centers around Krems-an-der-Donau, a historic wine town on the Danube river 35 miles (55km) northwest of Vienna. The district's vineyards produce world-class Riesling, and characterful, full-bodied Zweigelt, but the flagship Kremstal wine style is rich, round, aromatic Gruner Veltliner.
The majority of Kremstal's vineyards are located on the northern side of the Danube. Starting right at the river's edge, they stretch up into the rolling hills above Krems, northwards as far as Stratzing and eastwards to Gedersdorf. Beyond these two points, the vines belong to the Kamptal district.
© AWMB/Egon Mark
In terms of climate, Kremstal is very slightly warmer than that of Wachau, being a touch closer to (and more exposed to) the warmth of the Pannonian Plain to the east. The warmth that blows in from the plain is counteracted to some degree by cool mountain winds born in the Alps to the west. The presence of the Danube also helps to moderate the climate slightly, taking the edge off sweltering summer afternoons and fending off the worst winter frosts. Despite this, Austria's generally continental climate prevails here, with warm summers, cold winters, and noticeable day-night temperature variation. The latter, which allows the grapes to develop rich aromatics while retaining crisp acidity, is one of the secrets behind the fresh intensity of Kremstal wines.
Soil types in Kremstal vineyards are relatively diverse. The most common soils are the clays and limestone found in lower-lying sites close to the river, and the deep loess found further inland. Gruner Veltliner does well on both of these soil types, producing some of Austria's most intensely aromatic, full-bodied white wines. Immediately west of Krems, where the riverbanks steepen towards Wachau, granite and gneiss can be found – most notably in the Steiner Pfaffenberg and Steiner Hund vineyard sites. Riesling excels on these sites, giving wines with a little more elegance and restraint.
The stony Steiner Hund site is said to have earned its name because it was so difficult to work (Hund means "dog") and its wines take so long to reach developed maturity. For similar reasons, Dr. Christine Saahs of the respected Nikolaihof winery describes it as a "difficult child".
The most sought-after Kremstal wines include Erich & Maria Berger's Gruner Veltliner, Weingut Nigl's "Senftenberger Pellingen Privat" Riesling, and the intriguingly titled "Laurenz und Sophie Singing" Gruner Veltliner from Weingut Laurenz. Much rarer, but absolutely worthy of mention, are two of Austria's most respected sweet wines: the Lenz Moser Prestige Beerenauslese and Prestige Trockenbeerenauslese.
In 2007, the Kremstal DAC title was created, specifically for the district's dry whites made from Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. The appellation covers two styles: the light, fresh Classic, and the richer, fuller-bodied Reserve. This has not narrowed the region's focus though – Kremstal vineyards are still populated by Zweigelt, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, among other varieties.
