Lefkas (Lefkadas) is an island off the west coast of mainland Greece. While it is not the most viticulturally famous of the Ionian islands (that title surely goes to Cephalonia), it is one of the most densely planted to vine. The mainstay of the island is dense, tannic red wines made from the local Vertzami grape variety.
The rugged island spans some 20 miles (32km) from north to south and is separated from the mainland by only a thin canal. Like many Greek islands, Lefkas is covered in hills and mountains, particularly in the center where the 3800ft-high (1150m) Mount Stavrota is the highest point on the island.
The official appellation of Lefkas allows for the production of red, white and rosé wines although – unusually for a Greek appellation – this is split into three geographical sub-zones – one for each color. The white Verdea grape variety can be found in the south of the island, while the red Vertzami is planted in the center. The rosé zone is also found in the center, although it is far less extensive than the red zone, and covers higher altitudes.
Vertzami requires a lot of heat to ripen sufficiently, and so site selection for vineyards is vital. The hot Mediterranean climate on Lefkas is well suited to the production of this variety and contributes sufficient sunlight and heat during the growing season to bring the grapes to optimum ripeness. Lefka's dry, rocky soils make an excellent base for the vines, which are often planted low to the ground in the traditional goblet style. Low levels of water and nutrients in these soils stress the vines, lessening vigor and yields and concentrating energy into the production of high-quality grapes.
Wine-growing on Lefkas dates back to the Middle Ages, when many of the Ionian islands were under Venetian rule. The Vertzami grape possibly shares parentage with the Marzemino variety of northern Italy, suggesting the grape was introduced to the island by the Venetians. Nowadays, Vertzami makes up around 90% of vineyard plantings on the island; the rest are a range of native grapes.
