Zitsa is the only appellation in the mountainous Epirus region in north-western Greece. The continental climate and high altitude here mean that this is one of the coolest wine regions in Greece, and is the sole appellation in the country that deals in sparkling white wines. The high acidity and delicate aromatics of the native Debina grape variety that dominates Zitsa's vineyards are well suited to this kind of treatment.
The vineyard area centers on the small town of Zitsa, located within the Pindus mountain range some 30 miles (50km) from the Ionian coast. Along with Zitsa, the neighboring villages of Karitsa, Klimatia and Protopappa fall under the appellation. Numerous hills, mountains and valleys typify the terrain of the area, and vineyards usually sit on steep, sunny south- and east-facing slopes with free-draining limestone soils.
The climate of Zitsa is more continental than that in much of the rest of Greece, although there is some maritime influence from the Ionian Sea in the west. In summer, cooling breezes from the ocean help to temper the effects of the continental warmth, and vineyard altitudes reaching as high as 2300ft (700m) above sea level mean that the evenings are much cooler. This diurnal temperature variation means that the Debina grapes can ripen slowly without losing much acidity, a vital component in the production of sparkling wines. Cold winters in Zitsa often see the vineyards covered in snow.
Although Zitsa has been producing Debina wine since 600 AD, it became an official appellation only in 1972. One of the region's most famous proponents was the English poet Lord Byron, who was a guest at the monastery in Zitsa in the early 19th Century and praised the region's wines. The advent of phylloxera had a severe impact on the region during the 20th Century but it has experienced growth in production and quality since the 1970s.
Debina may be the only officially permitted grape to be used in Zitsa-labeled wines, but it is not the only variety grown in the area. A traditional wine associated with Zitsa is a blended red made from Bekari and Vlachiko grapes, often produced in a sparkling rosé style. Bekari and Vlachiko are still grown in Zitsa and are often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce dry, full-bodied table wines.
