Sitia is the easternmost appellation of Crete, spanning the famous island from the Sea of Crete in the north to the Libyan Sea in the south. Sitia's best wines are made from the Liatiko grape variety, in both dry and sweet styles. These wines are regarded as the most interesting to be produced in Sitia and the most likely to invigorate Crete’s winemaking reputation.
Sitia is the largest appellation on Crete and centers on the town of Sitia, some 55 miles (90km) east of Heraklion. On this eastern extremity of Crete, the land varies from coastal vineyards in the north and south to a mountainous plateau in the center of the island. Vines are planted across the whole appellation, from the warm, coastal sites to the windswept heights of the plateau.
Both red and white wines are permitted under the Sitia appellation. Liatiko is vinified with the more deeply colored Mandilaria grape variety to produce both dry red wines and a sweeter style created by air-drying the grapes to concentrate the sugars. Light, aromatic white wines are created from a blend of Vilana and Thrapsathri.
Like much of Crete, Sitia enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with some hotter influences from North Africa. The red-wine varieties are planted on sites on the lower elevations nearer the coast, where ample sun exposure helps grapes to achieve phenolic ripeness. White-wine varieties are planted on the mountainous plateau in the center of the island, at altitudes of around 2000ft (600m) above sea level. Here, vineyards are more subject to cooling breezes, which slow ripening, preserving acidity in the grapes. Winds from the Aegean Sea help to moderate humidity during the growing season, lowering the risk of fungal vine diseases and rot.
The calcareous soils in Sitia are well suited to viticulture, and the vines are often planted in a traditional gobelet style to make the best use of the dry terroir. The sandy, free-draining soils lessen the vigor of the vines, which refocuses resources into the production of small, highly concentrated grapes.
Sitia is regarded as being one of the oldest wine-growing areas in Greece, and evidence of winemaking from around 2500 years ago was found in the village of Myrtos, near the western edge of the appellation. Today, Sitia is enjoying a comeback of sorts, and a variety of wines are produced within the appellation. The local Sitia cooperative and Economou are the best-known producers on Crete’s east coast.
