Clos de la Roche is the most northerly of Morey-Saint-Denis' four grand cru vineyards. It is located on the slopes of the Côte d'Or above the Route des Grands Crus, and covers 17 hectares (42 acres) of Pinot Noir vines, more than twice that of Clos Saint-Denis. Clos de la Roche is considered as one of Morey-Saint-Denis' best climats, and makes plump, structured wines with characteristics of cherry and truffle.
(© BIVB / Domaine A.)
The vineyard lies on Morey-Saint-Denis' border with Gevrey-Chambertin, stretching down to the northern edge of its neighboring climat, Clos Saint-Denis. Monts Luisants, one of the few premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits that makes white wines as well as red, lies on the hillside above Clos de la Roche.
Over the last century or so, several premier cru sites on the slope below Clos de la Roche were deemed to have such a similar terroir that they became part of the climat. This has seen Clos de la Roche more than triple in size, and it is now one of the largest grand cru sites on the Côte d'Or, beaten only by Corton, Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux and its close neighbor, Charmes-Chambertin.
The terroir in Clos de la Roche is based largely on limestone. The thin topsoils are composed of pebbly limestone and clay over a more solid limestone subsoil, with a larger proportion of marlstone in the soils. This, combined with the gentle slope of the climat, makes for good drainage, which reduces disease pressure as well as preventing vines from becoming too vigorous. The result is healthy, strong vines that produce high-quality berries with good concentration. Burgundy's cool continental climate and Clos de la Roche's easterly aspect add to the terroir, ensuring berries reach the optimum level of ripeness while developing good acidity.
The names of all of Morey's vineyards – as is the case with most Burgundy communes – are full of historical and religious references. The Clos de la Roche is no exception, although its origins are much earlier than those of Clos de Tart and Clos Saint-Denis. In the days before Christianity reached eastern France, the roche (rock) in question is reputed to have been used by local druids in their ritual sacrifices. Whether this piece of folklore is accurate or not is hard to ascertain, and the more believable alternative is that the name is a reference to the stony soils in the vineyard.
